Question about correction layers for faded lines
Question about correction layers for faded lines
I got this nice Xanadu cel not long ago, unfortunately it has moderate line fading. However, it came with the matching sketch, so making a correction layer wouldn't be too difficult. Is there a specific type of transparency I should use to make it? Also, can it go directly over the cel, or would it need to be outside the cel bag? If there's any risk of damage at all to the cel then I just wouldn't bother.
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Re: Question about correction layers for faded lines
I'm no expert on making corrections layers... and, you can buy the same actual animation materials, like hole punched acetate, which were used to make these shows.
I've made some correction layers just using what I had available. I had mylar sheets I cut down, and I taped everything in place using artist tape. To draw the lines, I used a Copic Multiliner SP 0.5 pen. I had problems getting a consistent line with thinner pens, and larger pens just gave way too thick a line. The results look perfect at arms length... but, if you look up close you can tell the pen line is neater, and a more consistent thickness than the original linework. When looking really close (like when you're going over lines), you can see that the original lines are xeroxed from linework originally drawn with a pencil. You can see where the pencil lead might have broken, where they might have started out with a newly sharpened pencil and the line is really fine or almost non-existent on the cel, and when the pencil needed to be sharpened and the line is thicker and less precise.
Do not make your correction layer from the douga or clean up sketch, your lines will be slightly off. Having the sketch is good for reference, but put the plastic sheet over the cel and work from that. Also, if you use the same materials as me, know that it takes about a day for the pen lines to dry, and, if you touch them before they dry, they'll wipe right off. I worked from the middle of the drawing to the surrounding lines, so I wouldn't touch my own lines... And, wear cotton gloves, or you'll have a ton of finger prints.
The first correction layer I made was for my Five Star Stories Knight of Gold cel, and the second one I made was for a Guyver cel. The Five Star Stories cel has been kept in a portfolio, and the Guyver cel is framed. Neither correction layer has shown any fading, nor have they stuck to the front of their accompanying cel, and they have not pulled any lines off of the cels either. It has been about 9 years and 8 months.
I've made some correction layers just using what I had available. I had mylar sheets I cut down, and I taped everything in place using artist tape. To draw the lines, I used a Copic Multiliner SP 0.5 pen. I had problems getting a consistent line with thinner pens, and larger pens just gave way too thick a line. The results look perfect at arms length... but, if you look up close you can tell the pen line is neater, and a more consistent thickness than the original linework. When looking really close (like when you're going over lines), you can see that the original lines are xeroxed from linework originally drawn with a pencil. You can see where the pencil lead might have broken, where they might have started out with a newly sharpened pencil and the line is really fine or almost non-existent on the cel, and when the pencil needed to be sharpened and the line is thicker and less precise.
Do not make your correction layer from the douga or clean up sketch, your lines will be slightly off. Having the sketch is good for reference, but put the plastic sheet over the cel and work from that. Also, if you use the same materials as me, know that it takes about a day for the pen lines to dry, and, if you touch them before they dry, they'll wipe right off. I worked from the middle of the drawing to the surrounding lines, so I wouldn't touch my own lines... And, wear cotton gloves, or you'll have a ton of finger prints.
The first correction layer I made was for my Five Star Stories Knight of Gold cel, and the second one I made was for a Guyver cel. The Five Star Stories cel has been kept in a portfolio, and the Guyver cel is framed. Neither correction layer has shown any fading, nor have they stuck to the front of their accompanying cel, and they have not pulled any lines off of the cels either. It has been about 9 years and 8 months.
Re: Question about correction layers for faded lines
Ah, well, what I was considering doing was increasing the contrast on the sketch scan so that only the black pencil shows up and then making a xerox of that. What do you think?GuyvarIII wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:29 am Do not make your correction layer from the douga or clean up sketch, your lines will be slightly off. Having the sketch is good for reference, but put the plastic sheet over the cel and work from that. Also, if you use the same materials as me, know that it takes about a day for the pen lines to dry, and, if you touch them before they dry, they'll wipe right off. I worked from the middle of the drawing to the surrounding lines, so I wouldn't touch my own lines... And, wear cotton gloves, or you'll have a ton of finger prints.
Unfortunately, my hands aren't anywhere close to being steady enough to make a hand-inked correction layer...
That's good to know!Neither correction layer has shown any fading, nor have they stuck to the front of their accompanying cel, and they have not pulled any lines off of the cels either. It has been about 9 years and 8 months.
Re: Question about correction layers for faded lines
You can definitely separate the linework in the pencil sketch.
You'll want to do it with a higher resolution scan.
But, as a proof of your concept, below, I just did a quick color selection, followed by some darkening and contrast of your sketch image above... and it's already almost there.
However, I think the alignment will be slightly off when you print it...
But, with some trial and error, and "warping" of the image in PhotoShop, you might get it to work.
Also, I have no idea how long ink jet printed black lines on plastic film will last.
You'll want to do it with a higher resolution scan.
But, as a proof of your concept, below, I just did a quick color selection, followed by some darkening and contrast of your sketch image above... and it's already almost there.
- Xanadu_migrator.jpg (861.46 KiB) Viewed 1243 times
But, with some trial and error, and "warping" of the image in PhotoShop, you might get it to work.
Also, I have no idea how long ink jet printed black lines on plastic film will last.