cel revising and the like

tyromaniac · Post by **tyromaniac** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:33 pm

Seeing as cels are mostly bought for visual pleasure and also seeing as they also have the dreaded paint "gas" problem, I was wondering about line revisions. When line revisions are done on a cel, does the value of the cel decrease or increase? It can either retain the original painters lines that fade over time or look new, but not original. And if it is in fact better to revise the lines, who would be someone to call or ask to do one? Is it possible to do it with my own hands?

RoboFlonne · Post by **RoboFlonne** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:45 pm

You'd probably want to practice alot...

before trying it on the actual cel...

As for the value of the cel... It depends on how nice the retouched lines are and if your buyer cares...

klet · Post by **klet** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:12 pm

Personally, I'd never do the lines on the actual cel. You can purchase spare acetate and do a kind of "correction" layer, though.

beatrush · Post by **beatrush** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:18 pm

correction layer is the way to go, better to ruin a $1 piece of acetate than a $50 cel.

tyromaniac · Post by **tyromaniac** » Tue Jan 13, 2009 5:35 pm

correction layer sounds like a good idea. Guess I'll have to find some acetate to work with

daikkenaurora · Post by **daikkenaurora** » Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:59 pm

What kind paint should be used to fix lines?

iceman57 · Post by **iceman57** » Sat May 02, 2009 3:35 pm

I'll say chinese ink but this may be shiny and not mate, so certainly an acrylic base...

Post by **Kaona** » Sat May 02, 2009 6:17 pm

A good ink to use for a correction layer is Black India Rapidraw Radiograph Ink by Koh-I-Noor. It is waterproof and made for film/acetate. You'll also need a Rapidograph Koh-I-Noor pen (.30 - .35) in order to use the ink.

dbzmomma · Post by **dbzmomma** » Sun May 03, 2009 6:25 am

Fine line permanent ink pen on archival acid-free acetate. Tape to either both sides or top and bottom (whichever you don't mind having the tape on) so it's secure. You need a steady hand and need to be able to see where you're going. You don't want to obscure any lines with your hand as you're tracing.

You might want to do short lines first, take a deep breath and then do the continuous lines. Make sure your pen doesn't leave dots or blots as you pick it up and replace it on the line.

Definitely try your pens out on the acetate before doing your actual correction layer so you'll know how the pen works on the acetate.

As you can see, I've done a few.

iceman57 · Post by **iceman57** » Sun May 03, 2009 10:31 am

I'm most aware of "Rotring" brand, does someone ever use such pen ?...

dbzmomma · Post by **dbzmomma** » Sun May 03, 2009 4:13 pm

It's been a long time since I've had to use the old-fashioned manual graphic arts tools. (Thank God I was taught before computers!!! About 1,000,000 B.C., I think...)

I used the Koh-i-noor Rapidograph mentioned previously. I can't remember the Rotring, but it's a valid graphics tool. You'll have to experiment.

iceman57 · Post by **iceman57** » Sun May 03, 2009 4:28 pm

dbzmomma wrote:I can't remember the Rotring, but it's a valid graphics tool. You'll have to experiment.

Already done for years, was my first ink pen for blueprints inking.
Something like 15 years ago as a schoolar

glorff · Post by **glorff** » Mon May 04, 2009 1:26 pm

Same idea and quality, just on different sides of the pond. We don't see many Rotrings over here, because Koh i noor dominates the US market (what is left of it) for ink pens.

jcaliff · Post by **jcaliff** » Mon May 04, 2009 2:17 pm

I've used both Rotring and Koh-I-Noor rapidograph pens. I really hate the ones that use the disposible cartridge system and prefer the ones where you refill the ink yourself. They're messier, but I don't feel like I have to use an entire cartridge and can just put a little ink in at a time instead. However, IMHO the cartidge pens are easier to clean in the event you forget about them and end up with dried ink in the nibs.

iceman57 · Post by **iceman57** » Mon May 04, 2009 2:20 pm

I see !

Thanks glorff for the note.

jcaliff wrote:I've used both Rotring and Koh-I-Noor rapidograph pens. I really hate the ones that use the disposible cartridge system and prefer the ones where you refill the ink yourself.

I only knew the refillable ones with the ink tanker

___

So now the question is relative to matte ink if I want to copy the process here in good old Europe... or shiny classic ink will fit ?

What do people recommend to communicate to my restoration specialist ?

Here is "Hajime No Ippo" - Miyata - unstucked cel :
http://toshiro.rubberslug.com/gallery/i ... mID=276698

And here the details (hairs ends) that she asked me how to retouch.