Good archival tape for plastics?

[Nene]

I thought I'd try and source some opinions here first before I look for other forums as I know some people here know what they're talking about just as well. Just to clarify, I'm not looking for tape for any kind of cel or production art.

I'm looking for some kind of archival/long lasting/minimal damaging tape for plastic-type materials. I actually don't know what kinda of plastic it is but one sheet is thinner than the other and has a design printed on it. If it helps, it's the headboard for my pinball machine. Someone originally used what looks like black duct tape to affix the print to the plastic board and it's peeling off so I need an alternative. I don't think the duct tape used is the best type of tape, or I could be wrong. But at the same time the tape needs to be fairly strong as it's holding the print vertically against the thicker piece of plastic.

If someone can understand all that, well done.

If anyone knows of any different kinds of archival tape, feel free to link me and I'll investigate into it. Thanks in advance.

[sensei]

I looked over the "Tapes" page at Talas, a good conservation supplies source, and judging from what you're saying, "Frame Sealing Tape" might be what you want. It's opaque like duct tape, but the adhesive is rated acid-free, so it shouldn't cause trouble down the road.

The Talas page for this product is

http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/ ... ctID=20913

But as they tend to be expensive, you might read it and then Google "Frame Sealing Tape" to see if you could find a less pricy source that still has the properties you want.

They also have clear tapes that are acid-free, but these tend to be pricier yet. Good luck and thanks for joining the fight against cheap tape.

[Nene]

Thanks Sensei, framing tape sounds like the best kind of tape. I had a moment where I couldn't think of anything but "archival tape" but "framing" sounds more appropriate so I'll do some research into it. Thanks for the site link.


Also, I don't suppose you know of a method for removing the gunk from the old tape that's on the plastic? This piece of plastic wouldn't be as fragile as a cel and I'd be careful not to get anything on the actual print either. Would I be going down the solvent route or would something more natural work just as well? I don't want the gunk to make the plastic discolour so I hope to remove it before I apply new stuff.

[star-phoenix]

Also, I don't suppose you know of a method for removing the gunk from the old tape that's on the plastic? This piece of plastic wouldn't be as fragile as a cel and I'd be careful not to get anything on the actual print either. Would I be going down the solvent route or would something more natural work just as well? I don't want the gunk to make the plastic discolour so I hope to remove it before I apply new stuff.

I had this problem with a cel when I removed it from a frame. I used rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to directly remove the goo from the top of cel, which was the only method I found to work. But, it takes a long time and you have to be careful not to drip on the paint. I never had a problem with that cel since then (no deterioration or anything noted and it has been about 7-8 years now).

[Nene]

Thanks Star-phoenix, will give the rubbing alcohol a go. Must save Elvira.

[sensei]

Ditto the isopropyl, though you might first try a little on an inconspicuous spot to look for unexpected consequences. Goo-Gone (available at your local 99-cent store) also will work, but alcohol is usually cheaper and useful for more things (e.g., treating paper cuts or removing oil from your nose prior to putting on breathing strips at bedtime).

[Nene]

Thanks for the help, I should be able to attempt this as soon as my spring clean is done.

[iceman57]

Saw my framer yesterday morning, they do recommand "FILMOPLAST P90".
We do use Filmoplast in my frames to hang my cels without touching the background.

Find following technical details :



Filmoplast® P 90

Framing:
filmoplast P 90 is made from a white, tear resistant paper and coated with Neschen’s own age resistant acrylic adhesive. filmoplast P 90 is widely used to hinge those works of art that do not warrant wheat paste and rice paper hinges. Both the adhesive and paper are buffered (pH 8.7 aged) so the tape remains acid-free for decades after application. Like all pressure sensitive tapes filmoplast P 90 should be burnished upon application with a clean bone folder to achieve the optimum bonding strength.

Library:
Made from a white, tear resistant paper and Neschen’s own unique age resistant acrylic adhesive filmoplast P 90 is used widely for reinforcing folds on maps and music scores, reattaching paperback book covers and mending damaged paper edges. Both the adhesive and paper carrier are buffered (pH 8.7 aged) to prevent an influx of acids. Tape should be burnished upon application with a clean bone folder to achieve the optimum bonding strength.

Product Specifications:
white, long-fibred, acid-free, non-ageing special paper
wood-free, approx. 40 g/m2
non-ageing, non-yellowing, permanently elastic acrylate adhesive
paper carrier and adhesive are buffered with CaCO3
for fixing objects to passe-partouts or on rear mounts
can be removed from study paper surfaces with water

[Nene]

I went with this "book repair tape" in the end: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003 ... ss_product

It feels nice and thick and archival safe. Now I just need to get around to doing it.